So when I was at the BBQ at the governor's house a man named Chamroeun invited me to his cousin's Bunong wedding on Sunday. Chamroeun is about 28 years old and has a job working for the government in an office and he also teaches English classes to some local students. His English is pretty good. When I ask if his cousin (who is the bride) would mind if I came to the wedding he said no problem - there will be around 300 people there.
So I decide on Saturday I should look for a dress shirt to wear to the wedding. I go to a few places in the market and look around. Seems they like crazy styles here - many bright designs or odd colors. I find one place that has a few nice simple dress shirts in blue, red, green - some have a little fancy trim on the shirt cuffs or collars but they are rather simple. The salesman says they are $10 each - fair enough. When I ask if they have them in medium or large he shakes his head no. He points to several that are all size small. Of course, at home I am considered skinny and slender but here I am larger than 85% of Cambodians and easily weigh more than 90% of them. The salesman picks out a few shirts from a rack that are medium and large sizes - they are pink, yellow, or have very odd designs - mostly for teenagers. I decline his offers and wander to another store.
I find a few other stores that have dress shirts for adults instead of teenagers but the prices vary greatly. Some people tell me $18 per shirt and another says $55. I actually check the $55 shirt to see if it is silk or cashmere but it is merely cotton. I decline these shirts even though some are exactly what I am looking for and head to get a dinner at the Steakout Bar and Grille.
The Steakout Bar and Grille is a new place owned by two sisters, Palli (Paulie) and Paula (not sure of spelling but it is said Paula). They run this little place that is maybe 20 feet wide and maybe 40 feet deep. They have put bamboo on the walls so it looks like you are in a hut. They have 5 tables, an actual bar with a few stools, a flat screen TV and a stereo system. Palli speaks excellent English and she tells me she worked at a restaurant in Phnom Penh years ago and learned to cook there. Paula speaks minimal English but it trying to learn more. I actually visited the Steakout weeks ago before it officially opened... Palli's boyfriend, a guy named Carrot from Australia (his name is really Stevie but he went by Carrot) and his friend were in Cambodia for a few months and they invited John, Simon, Veasna and I to come down and see the place. It wasn't finished but it looked ok and they offered us some beers and some happy chicken soup... Yes, in Phnom Penh they have Happy Pizza (pizza topped with marijuana) and it seems Palli sometimes makes a special version of chicken soup with a bit of marijuana mixed in. I would have tried a spoonful or two but she also says she puts in lots of chili peppers - and that is always my cue to not sample something since my mouth is on fire for hours after a single chili pepper!!
I was actually the first official customer here at the Steakout! Seems Brian from Ireland, has been helping out to get the place ready and he told Palli many people would come on this opening night. I was the only person other than Brian who came in. She was thrilled when I arrived and I ordered dinner (rice with grilled veggies and cashews) as well as a few beers I drank with Brian. I told Brian my experience with shirt shopping and he called Palli over. I told Palli the story and she said it is often like this when barang try to buy clothes in many shops.
She says when Carrot comes to visit they will go shopping together for clothes. He points out which shirts he likes and then he asks how much they cost. Often the price is between $ 15 - $30 each. Then they leave and Palli will return a few days later and ask how much the shirt is and she is told $ 6 - $8 each. Needless to say the price is much different if your not a rich barang! Seems clothes are one of the main things they gouge you on for the price. Up until now all of my transactions at the market seem to be the same price as the locals. Palli even offers to go with me to see what I like then I can give her the money and she will return and buy the item at a significant discount. I appreciate the offer and may take her up on it later.
Brian actually tells me to ask to see the kitchen. I ask Palli if it is ok and she proudly takes me in the back. We actually pass through her house/living quarters - basically a small bed on the right hand side and another on the left hand side along with some simple boxes they keep their clothes, etc. in. After that there is the kitchen - and it is very impressive. It is maybe 15 feet by 20 feet in size and ultra clean. On one side is a small gas stove where they cook, then a sink and microwave. They have a large hutch that they keep all of the dishes in and a cooler that the meat is kept in (by cooler I mean a large ice chest with a block of ice on top of it). When I comment how clean the place is she says she knows it must be very clean because Westerners have weak stomachs and if they get sick somewhere they will never return to that restaurant. I am very impressed with how she keeps the place and the way she thinks.
I stay at the Steakout until late - maybe 10pm - after all, as Brian says, "this is the only late night bar in Sen Monorom!". Palli has big plans for this place and knows it will take a while for it to catch on. It's in a nice location but away from most of the guesthouses - she needs to advertise. I will visit the Steakout many times in the coming weeks - good food plus they have free WIFI!!
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